Bowen Estate moves on to the next generation

In 1972 when Doug and Joy Bowen founded Bowen Estate near Penola on the red soils of the Coonawarra, it was one of the few wineries based there. Some forty years later, it has become one of the region’s landmarks, still producing the best value reds from the district as they swim against the tide of ever-increasing prices, clearly focused on delivering value-for-money.

Now Doug has “retired” from winemaking entrusting that role to daughter Emma, a graduate in winemaking from the Charles Sturt University in Wagga  and with experience in the Hunter Valley, Mudgee and Burgundy.

The seamless transition, with Doug now as Chief Viticulturist (and also chief lobster gatherer) can be seen with the wines from the 2011 vintage, which have caught the attention of The Independent’s wine critic, Anthony Rose, who wrote about the 2011 Bowen Cabernet Sauvignon: "A berry-scented, elegantly expressed Aussie red polished with a delicate brush of vanilla oak and a touch of herb". 

The Bowen heritage is in good hands!

Tim Adams The Fergus is a legend

Tim Adams’ The Fergus is a legend. Now in its 17th release –it was first produced in 1993-  from the old vine Grenache vineyard next to Tim’s kitchen, owned by his neighbour Fergus Mahon (now in his eighties, but still going strong). That year was one of a shortage of grapes and when Tim persuaded Fergus to sell him his grapes, he promised to name the wine after him. The Fergus is now one of the great blends to come from Australia.

I rate the 2009 Fergus the best we have seen since the 2006 vintage. It continues the outstanding Fergus lineage: Grenache and some Tempranillo were crushed over the skins of Mataro and Shiraz , using a method known in Italy as “Ripasso”, but one that Tim learned while working for Mick Knappsten at Leasingham in the 1970s. Last weekend I greatly enjoyed a bottle of the 2004 Fergus, still drinking beautifully a decade later!

The wine 2009 Fergus is stunning: the varieties all combine to form a spicy, juicy wine with lifted red berry aromas and flavours, grenache spiciness and given extra back palate firmness provided by the blending of the other varieties. It's medium weighted and superbly crafted to be a fantastic food partner, especially duck, lamb and gamey meats. Fergus will cellar patiently through to 2019.

Order here

Penfolds - the story goes on....

Isn’t it sad to see a great name like Penfolds “back in play”, as various private equity firms vie to purchase Treasury Wine Estates, no doubt to split it into the constituent parts that once were brands in their own right: Wolf Blass, Lindemans, etc – who remembers Seppelts?

Seems to me that they lost touch with their customers as they sought to become “luxury” brands with icon wines. Bob McLean at St. Hallett in the 1990s maintained that he wanted Poachers Blend (and Gamekeepers) to be his everyday wines so that fans of his Old Block Shiraz could enjoy these wines and when they wanted something special, dip deeper into their pockets for Old Block. Penfolds have let those great Shiraz: Bin 28, 128, etc. lose touch with their regular customers, while seeking to “reposition” them far up the scale. As for Rosemount, where has that once proud Hunter Valley brand gone, last seen in McLaren Vale… enough said.

And who can name the previous owners of the Penfolds brand – Tooth & Co. South Australian Brewing, The Adelaide Steamship Company, Southcorp? A sad story. 

25 years of Primo Estate Moda

The Joseph Moda is celebrating its 25th anniversary with the release of the 2012 vintage, (arriving in the UK early October) and to look back at its vinous history Joe recently opened up every one of them. The collection is a testament to the ageing ability of cabernet sauvignon (albeit in a blend with merlot), and also a fascinating glimpse into the unusual “amarone’ technique Joe employs in the drying of the grapes before they go into the winery. One thing Joe is convinced about is cabernet sauvignon’s suitability.

“It’s a tough little berry that can withstand the more challenging years,” he says. “You get the sun-filled Australianness of the raisins, as well as an Italian aged, earthy red character which comes around the seven-year mark.” If you’re a collector and have 2010, 2004, 2002, 1999, 1998, 1996, 1994, 1991, and even the 1989 and 1988 experimentals as Joe started out on this journey, then there are wonderful thrills to be had in your cellar.'

Watch the video of Joe Grilli making JOSEPH Moda at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9sTpQlF-KU

Water Wheel Shiraz rated 94 points - just £12 per bottle

Peter Cummings told me over a pint or two of London Pride last year that his 2012 Water Wheel reds were fabulous, now Australia’s top wine critic has rated the 2012 Bendigo Shiraz at 94 points, "exceptional value", in his latest Australian Wine Companion.
http://www.australianwinecentre.co.uk/acatalog/Water_Wheel_Vineyards.html